Jo Ellis Boyfriend
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Posts:223
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(Date Posted:18/10/2005 12:52)
Reply to : Martin Milner
If you pull that pin, all the buttons and levers on the keyboard will come loose and fall of the keyboard! As to getting at the springs, they are located under the levers, basically in the fingerboard (i think). It's a while since I've had a Lilly apart.
pip Ives
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Martin Milner
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Posts:205
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(Date Posted:18/10/2005 14:12)
Reply to : Jo Ellis Boyfriend
Reply to : Martin MilnerIf you pull that pin, all the buttons and levers on the keyboard will come loose and fall of the keyboard! As to getting at the springs, they are located under the levers, basically in the fingerboard (i think). It's a while since I've had a Lilly apart.pip Ives
Yup, that would be bad! I figured that's probably what it was, but it's good to know for sure!
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Theo Gibb 
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Posts:762
From: Great_britain 
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(Date Posted:18/10/2005 15:48)
Hi Martin
To get to the springs requires that wire to be pulled out. All the keys can then be lifted out - and they will spring out if not restrained! Probably the edge of the wooden key lever is fouling the slot it sits in, so the permanent cure is to strip the keyboard and lightly sand the areas where the wood is rubbing.
A quick fix that you can try is to put talcum powder into the problem area. It acts as a dry lubricant. Don't be tempted to use anything oily, greasy or waxy, dirt will stick to it and make things worse.
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Martin Milner
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Posts:205
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(Date Posted:19/10/2005 18:34)
Reply to : Theo Gibb
Hi MartinTo get to the springs requires that wire to be pulled out. All the keys can then be lifted out - and they will spring out if not restrained! Probably the edge of the wooden key lever is fouling the slot it sits in, so the permanent cure is to strip the keyboard and lightly sand the areas where the wood is rubbing.A quick fix that you can try is to put talcum powder into the problem area. It acts as a dry lubricant. Don't be tempted to use anything oily, greasy or waxy, dirt will stick to it and make things worse.
Thanks Theo, I though't you'd come up with a solution. I'm not ready to pull that pin just yet, so I'll try the dry lubricant idea.
Would graphite be any good? This is what we generally recommend when a fiddle string is snagging, at the nut or bridge. I don't think graphite is greasy. I would have thought talc might be prone to absorbing moisture and possibly swelling and making the problem worse, but I'm not sure.
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Theo Gibb
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Posts:762
From: Great_britain
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(Date Posted:19/10/2005 21:27)
Reply to : Martin Milner
Thanks Theo, I though't you'd come up with a solution. I'm not ready to pull that pin just yet, so I'll try the dry lubricant idea.Would graphite be any good? This is what we generally recommend when a fiddle string is snagging...
Graphite is at least as good, I suggested talc as its generally available in powdered form.
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Martin Milner
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Posts:205
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(Date Posted:20/10/2005 12:14)
Reply to : Theo Gibb
Graphite is at least as good, I suggested talc as its generally available in powdered form.
Brilliant, many thanks Theo, I'll give it the treatment.
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TameHippy
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Posts:14
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(Date Posted:22/10/2005 02:58)
Reply to : Martin Milner
Reply to : Theo GibbGraphite is at least as good, I suggested talc as its generally available in powdered form.Brilliant, many thanks Theo, I'llgive it the treatment.
If you can get the tip of a sharp pencil to the slot,that would deposit enough graphite to it I would think.
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Martin Milner
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Posts:205
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(Date Posted:23/10/2005 14:40)
Reply to : TameHippy
Reply to : Martin MilnerReply to : Theo GibbGraphite is at least as good, I suggested talc as its generally available in powdered form.Brilliant, many thanks Theo, I'llgive it the treatment.If you can get the tip of a sharp pencil to the slot,that would deposit enough graphite to it I would think.
I had a go with the talc, problem is it all just dropped through to the space under the wooden key. I'll have to look very closely when it next sticks, to see where the graphite or talc needs to be. I usually scrape some graphite off the pencil lead and use the powder.
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Theo Gibb
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Posts:762
From: Great_britain
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(Date Posted:23/10/2005 15:31)
Reply to : Martin Milner
I had a go with the talc, problem is it all just dropped through to the space under the wooden key. I'll have to look very closely when it next sticks, to see where the graphite or talc needs to be. I usually scrape some graphite off the pencil lead and use the powder.
Try placing the instrument on its side so the keyboard is vertical, then use a strip of paper slipped into the gap at the side of the key to work the talc or powdered graphite into the slot. Turn the instrument over and repeat for the other side of the key. You may also discover from using the paper where the tight spot is.
If you use pencil lead you should be using a soft one eg 4B. The harder leads are mixed with clay and binders that will have more friction. Powder the lead first - if the pencil end breaks off down the side of the key you could end up much worse off.
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Theo Gibb
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Posts:762
From: Great_britain
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(Date Posted:23/10/2005 15:32)
Mistake!
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Steve_freereeder
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Posts:405
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(Date Posted:24/10/2005 23:16)
Reply to : Theo Gibb and Martin Milner
Try placing the instrument on its side so the keyboard is vertical, then use a strip of paper slipped into the gap at the side of the key to work the talc or powdered graphite into the slot. Turn the instrument over and repeat for the other side of the key. You may also discover from using the paper where the tight spot is.If you use pencil lead you should be using a soft one eg 4B. The harder leads are mixed with clay and binders that will have more friction.
Try rubbing the pencil (4B, as Theo suggests) on to a narrow strip of paper, perhaps on both sides of the paper, and then easing the 'leaded' paper into the narrow slot where the key is sticking and working the strip of paper to-and-fro. You might need to experiment with different thicknesses of paper, or folding the strip into halves or thirds to get the right thickness. I've used this technique to cure sticking pads on clarinets and saxophones.
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Martin Milner
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Posts:205
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(Date Posted:11/12/2005 11:48)
I finally got fed up with the sticking key - by now it was now sticking every time I played in the damp church where we practise our Morris, so on Sunday morning I took off the grille, and pulled the securing pivot pin out enough to free the top six keys.
This operation wasn't nearly as scary or difficult as I anticipated, the keys didn't pop put with any force. I simply laid them out in order on the table, swapped the offending key with the F natural key which I have never used in ernest, then replaced them one by one, easing the pin back in slowly, The pivot pin tapers to a point, so it guides itself into the holes in the keys.
Before replacing the old G key in the F natural key's slot, I cleaned it and sandpapered it a little with very fine grade paper. So far so sign of anything sticking.
Tonight's practise will be the true field test - at least if I get any sticking now I know I can perform a minor operation to try to ease it again.
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