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Title: Property Management
  
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OkieKigers
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(Date Posted:03/12/2007 8:18 PM)

Well, i haven't gotten my barn yet,  but I did get a new round pen. With spring around the corner we've got some minor fence repairs going on. This was a former cattle operation and we still unfortunately have some barbed wire fences. (working on it). Just wonderng if anything new has popped up on the block in the way of pasture fence, anybody heard? I won't use field fence (called hawg-warr around here). It's more dangerous than the barbed wire, in my opinion.    What do the PNW folks fence their pastures with?

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OkieKigers
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(Date Posted:03/12/2007 8:18 PM)

Well, i haven't gotten my barn yet,  but I did get a new round pen. With spring around the corner we've got some minor fence repairs going on. This was a former cattle operation and we still unfortunately have some barbed wire fences. (working on it). Just wonderng if anything new has popped up on the block in the way of pasture fence, anybody heard? I won't use field fence (called hawg-warr around here). It's more dangerous than the barbed wire, in my opinion.    What do the PNW folks fence their pastures with?

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AmericanKigers
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(Date Posted:03/12/2007 8:25 PM)

LOGS - 16' or so long.

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kigers4ever
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(Date Posted:03/13/2007 1:23 AM)

Rail Road ties, 12' X 1.5' X 1.5' and  16' X 1.5' X 1.5' with heavy RR planks. This set up can also qualify for housing the wildies. Too bad us Canadians don't qualify for adoption!!!!
redfox
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(Date Posted:03/13/2007 1:53 AM)

Pasture fence ... I assume you mean to put in hundreds (or thousands) of feet, and so you are looking for a lower cost option than the type of fencing you might use for a small paddock or stall run.



I put a 6-strand straight wire high tensile fence around my "big" pasture, with T-posts spaced at 12' and oil field pipe braces for the corners. I electrified the bottom strand (to keep the dogs in and the coyotes out) and a middle and top strand for the horses. I tied orange plastic ribbons to the top strand for the first few weeks after I brought my horse home to make sure she saw the fence. So far, it has worked beautifully. I know it's not the safest horse fencing out there, but it was low-cost and works well for a pasture in which the horse has grass and is not likely to try to escape. The strands are spaced at approx. 9" apart.



I also have a paddock that I built using electric rope. I really like it, and one benefit is that you can put "gates" anywhere you want using spring handles. The only complaint I have so far is that the rope became somewhat brittle in the bitter cold of winter. The bottom strand was buried in snow drifts for over a month, and when the snow melted it had frayed and snapped (probably from the weight of the snow/ice in conjunction with the cold temperatures). On the plus side, the larger rope diameter and white color makes it easy for the horse to see, and I don't think it would cut nearly as badly as wire if the horse became tangled in it. I considered using electric tape, but I like the rope better because it has less surface area in our high winds.



My horse responds really well to electric fencing, so this setup works well for me.
OkieKigers
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(Date Posted:03/13/2007 3:09 AM)

Is there such a thing as a totally safe fence?


Redfox, I use the electric rope, too, for a couple of paddocks, and I love it. I picked Endurasoft by Premier One and it has been up for about six years now with very little sign of wear. But then, our winters generally aren't that bad. I tried the tape once and I hated it.

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AmericanKigers
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(Date Posted:03/13/2007 3:29 AM)

Is the question related to fencing for mustangs, in particular, newly-adopted mustangs?



BLM requires a 6' fence of various materials secured to posts with a 6" minimum and spaced no farther than 8' apart. T-posts are not acceptable. Neither is barbed wire, large-mesh woven, stranded and electric fencing.



I have found that BLM readily accepted our fences out of logs. Four (4) horizontal 12" logs, 10 inches apart, attached to vertical 9" to 12" posts/logs. The posts can be set 8' to 12' apart. The horizontal logs are attached to the posts by countersunk 3/4" lag bolts.



If the question is related to gentled horses, it is my understanding that BLM has no set rules. We use 9" to 13" logs for posts (4' down and 6' up). For the most part, the posts are set 16' apart. The 6' no-climb fencing material is secured by 4 clamps held in place by countersunk lag bolts. Where needed, horizontal logs are attached to the posts - one at the top of the fencing material and the other at the bottom. No T-posts are used due to the possibility of severe injuries. The only situation where a "hot" wire is on a fence between two stallions. This permanent-type of fence can be used in a paddock situation or for long distances and in either instance, is very secure.



If you have ever worried about a horse getting out onto a busy road or having a neighbor's mare jump in for a visit, this type of fence is for you.



This is as close to totally safe as I could make it



Janice



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DianneC
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(Date Posted:03/13/2007 8:43 AM)

If I could have any fence it would be round wood rails six foot high and made up of five rails set on big round posts plus a hot wire about nose high.

We had the five strand braided rope in Chehalis with big round posts every fity (? my guess) feet and spacers inbetween to keep the rope from sagging. Only trouble was that a horse could hit it hard and it would flatten to the ground, then spring back up. But that was good too if a horse tried to jump it and didn't clear it. We did have a horse roll and catch his back leg, took a thin strip of skin off the back cannon bone. Couldn't stitch it but it healed fine. The good thing was the babies would spring back off if they hit it but it was so easy to see that I never saw that happen. The spring gates were a problem though, horses would run right through them for some reason.

I had bare wire when I first started but I got the big heavy gauge. We had some "rope burns" but it never cut like thin wire is supposed to.

T posts are not a problem if you put the caps on them. There is a new type of cap that I've only seen one place. It's like a thick tough plastic sleeve that fits down over the top of the post so it can't cut. It doesn't come off like the caps to hold wire do. They are cheaper too.

Bettye, the only thing new I've seen is a white plastic rail with a holder for a hot wire built into it. Good for visibility and supposedly durable. Fits on the top of a T post. But they were quoting over $3 a foot with no climb fence and posts. Seems like you could use it with braided rope as well.

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OkieKigers
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