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Title: Post your MODDING tips and tricks here
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butnut
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Registered: 10/17/2002
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(Date Posted:08/12/2003 11:51:38)

OK you modders and DIYS people. I'll start the ball rolling here. I have a few things I can share with you that make doing stuff a little easier, better, faster? It can be useful for other stuff than guitar moddin', so feel free to addanythingyou like.Plastic cutting boards. Don't know why I only started using these 5 years ago...used to throw away the old funky blackened ones. You know, the opaque white plastic ones...we now have kool blue and green ones (green for cutting veggies and fruits only!) This stuff is the shit for drilling, punching holes and of course, cutting with Xacto or utility knifes. Never go hunting for a scrap piece of wood to drill on. It has a permanant place on my tool shelf. I used it to make my control plates. I drilled the 2 small mounting holes on the ends of the blank plates and screwed the plate to the board. Center punch and drill the bigger holes for the LP switch and pots...you know how the bit likes tobitejust before it breaks through the metal...no way if it's screwed down. Also screwed my Tele guard to it when I cut out the pup hole for the HB neck. Lots of uses for this board...throw it out when it's Swiss cheese, hopefully you'll have another board going bad...Sanding blocks. Get the 4" wide belt sander belts, slide 'em over a 3/4" plywood block that's cut to fit snugly inside. I've used these forever and it's great for leveling, smoothing...anything. At times it's better and faster than a file. I have 80, 100 & 120 grits, they last a real long time. Used 'em to shape and smooth the control plates as well as take 1/8" off the bottom of my Tele-Gib pup rings...just rub the bottom of the rings on 'em. I love these 'hand sanders'. Cheap too.Rubber grip mats. You'll find in at Costco in small rolls. Wood workers started using this as a 'no-clamp' skid pad to route, trim stuff while the pad holds the piece from moving. I think Costco calls it shelf liner...guess it's good for that too. I alway have a piece under the guitar/body I'm working on. Good stuff. I cut some round ones for my sons cymbals...crashing cymbals in the living room goes right through my brain cells! This stuff reduces the crash to aplink...hahaBronze wool. I learned this from doing Schwinn resto. Never use steel wool on chrome! Chrome is 'softer' than 'steel' soooo, it's gonna scratch...no matter how double ott fine it is. Bronze wool (fine) will remove thosepepperrust spots from chrome without scratching. You need to use Windex as a lube, so spray some on, and rub with the bronze wool. I found some at the Marine (boat) shop...sometimes Lowes has it.Magnfying head visor. My dad used this all the time working on electronics repair. I bought one for my touch-up biz...about 40 bucks for the good one. I'm getting old..glasses are'nt enough. Use 'em for soldering, lettering 'donut's', dressing fresh drilled/reamed holes with a utility knife. Makes things look real big so I can be more precise...and safer.Relic...my new foundreverse-resto...Kiwi brown shoe polish. Mandy told me about this, Rev Donzo (Lace) screamed about it's glory. I tell ya, it works. Here's my experience with it. When I read about relic'ing, it made sense to dull the paint before you put dents and ding in...shiney dents look wierd and too fresh. So I steel wooled the body (Tele-Gib). When I did the Kiwi, it got real dark, I guess the paint wasraw and 'open'being deglossed. I had to use a varnish remover to take the color off...I waited too long. Hint: if you don't like what you see, you have seconds to wipe off with alcohol..keeep a lot of clean rags ready. I was able to tone down areas with the alcohol and gave it real looking shading. Some plastic parts, knobs and pickup covers may not take...I used lacquer thinner to remove any wax and mold release from the plastic (be careful around painted numbers...work fast) and the color took...just had to do that for the Les Paul Standard truss plate...looks old now. It darkened a rich tone on my Strats (poly?) JV neck...I have a semi-bare baby butt whiteish neck for my Goldie...shoe shine tan for that one...soon.Ferrous Chloride. The relic-guru who did Roy's Nancy Tele clone used this stuff. Depending how long you soak or rub this stuff on, you can go from old, dull chrome to rusty POS! Be careful, wear gloves and eye gear. Water rinse stops the process...have a small container or wet rags handy. About 5 bucks for a bottle of instant age from Radio Shack.That's it for now...I'll add more if I can think of any...your turn, common' 'show and tell' your mod tips.

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Kustomized Tele"s rule! Thanks Big Daddy

Wattage
1# 



From: USA
Registered:10/22/2002
Time spent: 0 hours


(Date Posted:08/12/2003 18:25:07)

My tip is butnut, he is amazing! All great stuff there bro, you continue to lead the pack.

If you use WIndex on chrome make sure you put some wax on it when you are done. Ammonia will eventually break the chrome down, that can be a real issue on stuff that has very light plateing especially if has already started to break down a bit. I like Mother's Pure Carnuba Wax, great stuff. Works great over pinstripes by the way.

White teflon powder works as well as graphite for lubing nut slots and whatnot and it is seems to make less of a mess but put a picece of masking tape down over the first position if the guitar has a dark fretboard.

Use a small piece of sandpaper to rough up the lugs and back of new pots before soldering them so the solder gets a good bite.

3M Long Mask tape both the blue and the green versions are great, they stick well and release easily. Use the green version if you will leave the tape on for a while. 3M uses acrylic adhesive that can cure and bite into the finish if left on the surface for an extended period of time so be careful, the green has a much longer working time than the blue. For real delicate stuff try 3M Drafting Tape, super low tack and easy release, I've used the white version but i think I saw another color recently. Pricey tape I know but so is a re-fin, especially on a kustom or an oldie. Other brands (i.e. Anchor) of blue and green tape are not as good, I know the 3M's mean Much More Money but it is well worth it, quality is a rare commodity these days and besides unless you are really cranking the jobs out how much tape can you really be using.

If you need real good razor blades for working on a project go to a good paint and wallpaper shop and ask if they have blue blades for cutting wallpaper. They don't get rusty and they hold the edge longer, a pack of 50 cost about $1 more than a standard 50 pack.

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The Strip Club Devils - www.myspace.com/thestripclubdevils

Mr. Nasty - www.theHardline.net

Chorks
2# 



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From: USA
Registered:08/12/2002
Time spent: 6433 hours


(Date Posted:08/12/2003 22:35:35)

OK, you guys, these tips are SO good that I just HAD to add them to the main site!!!

http://www.telemodders.com/miscellaneous.html

You keep posting them, and I'll keep stealing them!!!

GREAT stuff...thanks!

Anonymous
3# 



Registered:04/06/2001
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(Date Posted:08/13/2003 06:46:51)

$%*'`[Kinda Flakey]%*'`@I want to change one of my tele's tone control from a treble roll off setup to a sweep (treble to bass) tone control. Any ideas how to do this?
MandyMarie
4# 



Registered:08/24/2002
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(Date Posted:08/13/2003 09:13:10)

If you want to lightly relic the BACK of a nitro finished neck grab yourself a large flame butane lighter and some fresh dark potting soil. Quickly run the flame up and down the back of the neck (quickly...that's the key word there or else it WILL catch if you hold it in one place too long) and then immediately take a small handful of the potting soil and lightly rub it into the wood. Take a dry paper towl and rub down the neck afterwards. The heat holds some of the grit giving it a slightly used appearance and the uneven-ness of the burn makes it look very natural. it looks much more natural (IMO) and lasts unlike pencil lead.
Wattage
5# 



From: USA
Registered:10/22/2002
Time spent: 0 hours


(Date Posted:08/19/2003 16:18:21)

Brian reminded me of another good tip I learned for pressing the string ferrules into the body of a Tele.

Put the ferrule on the tip of a hot soldering gun and gently push them into the hole. The heat makes it easier to slide them in and helps it get some "stick" without glue once set.

A good tip for testing wiring configurations-

Make up some leads with small alligator clips on the end and that way you can test the layout before committing anything to solder. Trust me it works and it can save you a considerable amount of aggravation and less chance you'll overcook your pots and small switches..

--------------------------------------------------------------
The Strip Club Devils - www.myspace.com/thestripclubdevils

Mr. Nasty - www.theHardline.net

chuckocaster
6# 



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(Date Posted:09/28/2003 09:29:40)

i use sperzel locking tuners, but got annoyed with the staggered heighth, because the g string never had enough break angle, and some of the others seemed a little off. so i did a little experimenting. amd this is what i came up. i'll try to explain it clearly.

the tuners come in three heights tall, medium, and short. they are supposed to be put on in that order. what i do however is put them in this way; tall, medium, short, short, medium, tall. that is from low e to high e. and for the e and b i use a roller string t. i know a lot of people hate string t's, but i like the roller.

this set up has worked remarkably for me. my tuning agonies are over, and the guitar actually feels better. i am such a stickler about string break angles. and with the "correct" set up with these tuners, the g string is practically parallel to the headstock. i hope this applies in this category.

--------------------------------------------------------------
and when you go i hope you wear it proud
i still believe in you i wish i could say that loud

FabGear
7# 



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(Date Posted:10/16/2003 22:22:00)

Ok, I'll share some of my tips and tricks that I've collected or discovered over the years:

With the surgence of dollar stores and "odd lot" stores, these can be your best friend! You can find SO many little things that are useful in either relic'ing or modifying guitars. You just have to be creative. I've gotten small long tweezers, little needle files, all sorts of odd and unusual tools that have been a great help.

Wanna remove some rust or age to metal parts? or.. do you need to sand a small little area but can't get that piece of sandpaper to stay stiff and be able to manipulate it? Use emery boards for filing nails! I buy a bunch of these when I go to the dollar store, they're simple and cheap to use. You can also cut them to shape when you need a special size and you just toss them when done. For polishing small metal parts they're great, especially if you get the 4 in one type, usually used to polish nails. Also great for drop filling laquuer and polishing it, or removing fine scratches.

Wanna get that dust out of the little areas of your guitars that have been hanging around for a while, but you don't want to use the force of a can of compressed air? Take a fine artist's paint brush. Soft enough to not damage anything and will get into those small areas.

Need to use a template, but don't want it to shift off your work while you're using it? Get some double sided tape used with those window film kits. It's thin, sticks well, but it removes cleanly with no damage to the surfaces. It's also great for sticking down those "floating bridges" on archtop guitars.

Hope those help! I can't give all my secrets away, I'll put myself out of business!
butnut
8# 



Registered:10/17/2002
Time spent: 0 hours


(Date Posted:10/24/2003 10:16:53)

Here's a pic showing how much of a difference using the Kiwi brown polish. My Jimmie Vaughan neck has a killer satin poly with a slight vintage tone to it. Beautiful...but since I just poly'd the new decal, it was too glossy. It only cured an hour, but it's hard already. I scuff it dull with 0000 steel wool and buff it with the 3M white 0000 pad. Nice. I rub the Kiwi on and I really saw a nice aged look jump out. I did the neck up to the 5th fret in the pic...see the diff? I love this stuff.



--------------------------------------------------------------
Kustomized Tele"s rule! Thanks Big Daddy

Telefreak
9# 



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(Date Posted:11/05/2003 03:36:31)

My tip is, if you need to rout out a pickup cavity, instead of drawing your marking on the body, put masking tape on the body and draw on that. It saves on damage to paint work and is a hell of alot easier to see when sawdust is flying around

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FabGear
10# 



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(Date Posted:11/05/2003 19:35:10)

Very good tip Dave! I've used that trick too and it works really well. The main thing to do is to follow up with the tape by cutting with an X-Acto knife your outline too. It'll break the surface of the paint and keep it from chipping out.

Brian, if you lightly scuff it up first, the Kiwi soaks in more and stays a aprt of the finish, as opposed to wearing off like it will if the finish is shiny or glossy. I usually either use 600 grit wet/dry or the synth pads for that.

 

teletom
11# 



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(Date Posted:12/18/2003 00:50:38)

 For loose switch tips I use the stuff that is called 'Blutak' over here.  I think it's 'stickytak' in North America.  It's the stuff you put posters up with.  A tiny bit of it in the switchtip slot and it won't go anywhere....unless you want it to.  It sticks for years and holds firm but you can still pull it off whenever you want to.  It's good for loose ferrules too.
chuckocaster
12# 



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Posts:1121
From: USA
Registered:09/02/2003
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(Date Posted:06/17/2005 12:11:05)

if you want to put a set of schaller lockers on your guitar but have lost the correct screws for them (i know i have...) you can use the screws from the strap buttons you're taking off. you will need to turn them down, but it is easy to do. you will need a hand drill, and a grinder (the kind that is on a base). simple tighten the screw up in the chuck (be sure to use a little peice of cotton or something as to not damage the threads) with the head out. turn on grinder. make sure your drill is set to the opposite direction of the wheel. then simply turn it down by holding the screw perpindicular to the grinder while turning it with the drill. make sure to go slow and not take too much off at once. it should take very little for it to clear the inside of the schaller button. repeat and viola, you didn't have to buy new screws or a whole new set of strap locks.

--------------------------------------------------------------
and when you go i hope you wear it proud
i still believe in you i wish i could say that loud

dermglass
13# 



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(Date Posted:01/28/2007 11:48:28)

A real easy mod I do to my tele's is to take the neck pickup out of the tone control circuit. It lets me cut the highs on the lead pu without without affecting the other settings and brightens up the neck pickup a bit.
Helloid
14# 



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(Date Posted:05/13/2007 21:12:17)

A Parks PCS bicycle tune-up rack is perfect for painting. That's all I got. I am new to this stuff. I spray outside into a $20 Target portable wardrobe. I totally move it around to deflect the wind, and usually have it open. But I can also zip it up for a vapor free paintjob. The trick is trying to keep the paint particles from falling back onto the fresh paint.



Do you have a diagram on how to take the neck pup out of the tone circuit?

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As Seen on TV

thebbb33
15# 



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(Date Posted:08/21/2007 20:43:12)

I built my own Tele, and after a few different setups I found the perfect sound.  I have a swamp ash body, maple neck, rosewood fret board.  I have a Bill Lawrence T-1 in the neck and a Rio grande Muy Grande Twangbucker in the bridge. I used a 5 position selector switch which let's me split the coils on the twangbucker.  I also used copper shielding in the pickup holes so there is no buzz at all from the pickups.  I also used the copper tape shileding to bring a ground up under the bridge. This setup, can be as smooth as can be, like bell tones, or it can get down and dirty.  

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