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Title: Transfer box on a 4x4 50 series
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RBman
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(Date Posted:27/01/2005 23:15)

What is the best way to test to see if the chains in the transfer box on a 4x4 50series are worn ? is it ok to apply the handbrakes, select lo-range, place it in gear and lift the clutch to see how much load will affect the transfer box.
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jfb350
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(Date Posted:28/01/2005 01:46)

Reply to : RBman
I do not know if there is any test other than to inspect the chain.   I would think that there is an expected lifetime for the chain then renewal. Is there a problem with your trans.box .What mileage has it done?
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RBman
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(Date Posted:28/01/2005 16:41)

Hi, I am trying to ascertain if the box is worn, before embarking on a working project with the van. There does not seem to be a problem at the moment but I was told this was a way to test it. The mileage is 44,000 on the clock, and judging the general condition I would call this a fairly good idea of what it has done.

Cheers for the response.
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jammydodger
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(Date Posted:28/01/2005 21:47)

If you want a rough and ready method,  check your backlash at the prop-shaft.

If it clonks between the over-run and drive, there's zummat wrong zumwhere.

I doubt the chain will suddenly snap from wear.

J

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RBman
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(Date Posted:29/01/2005 20:52)

Sorry J , I am being a bit thick but whats "over-run to drive" do you mean the slack in the propshaft from the engine to the transfer box or propshaft play from transfer box to final drive (diffs). Learning curve and I am on it and having fun .... Thanks.
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Jammiedodger
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(Date Posted:29/01/2005 21:18)

'Over-run' is when you take your foot off the accelerator as you are going along. 

'Drive' is when you put your foot back on the accelerator.

If you don't get a nasty clunk when you do that, you've not got a problem with that chain.

If you get a clunk, it may be the chain, but could be something cheap and simple.

No clunk - No worries.

J

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RBman
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(Date Posted:29/01/2005 22:11)

Cheers J,

I think there may be a clunk when I press the accelerator but this is usually when I pull away hard. The clunk comes deirectly below the cab and not from behind it. I shall have a good look/play tomorrow and test it out. Cheers again.
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Jammiedodger
7# 



Registered:06/03/2004
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(Date Posted:30/01/2005 12:06)

I shall have a good look/play tomorrow and test it out

Ah!  Mmm!

I once read a medical book about pregnancy. - x - Did I worry when I felt sick the next morning - x - Near on took my hangover away.

I recommend that you wait until the clunk is obvious when you drive normally. - x - If you haven't noticed a NASTY clunk so far, the chain's not worn.

First rule of the motor trade. - x - Tell the customer, you can hear a bit of rattle in his widget, but it should last a bit longer - x - he'll be back within a few weeks to have you fix his widget.

Look for a noise, you will find it.

If it clonks a bit,  how about you change your driving style to drive without a clonk? - x - With all those transmission doodads with all wheel drive, low ratio box, half a dozen universal joints, etc,  you will have a bit of a clonk anyway.

Barring manufacturing faults, I expect that your chain will go for many years, and when it does wear, it will jump a cog, rather than break.

J

 

 

 

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RBman
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(Date Posted:30/01/2005 21:04)

Cheers J,

Your right, I tried it today and all was ok , little clunks but that is what the truck does . I was told that this was the item (trans box) to avoid replacing but I can see now where you are coming from.

I have faith and so does the dodge !

I shall plough on with the work project and tackle it as it comes.

RBman
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Jammiedodger
9# 



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(Date Posted:30/01/2005 22:47)

My pleaseure RB

All the best J

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syze
10# 



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(Date Posted:27/02/2005 14:04)

hi all you 4b4ers! it seems i just joined your club, anyone wanna buy a lovely s56? i'm going to pick up my rb4x4 this coming weekend and i think (not that i've seen it!) the chain in the transfer box needs replacing. aparently its easily drivable but does make an obvious loud clunk and will need replacing soon. any tips for sorting this out? i guess its a question of replacing the chain or the whole box. Any ideas of where to get a new chain ( i'll try andrew in a minute) How difficult will it be to change the chain? Questions, questions. any help much appreciated. yours joesyze
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syze
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(Date Posted:27/02/2005 14:15)

ok so Andrew of custom diesels was very helpful but quoted me a grand and a half for a new box (new chain and cogs sorted). anyone got a plan b ? joe
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Jammiedodger
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(Date Posted:27/02/2005 20:32)

How handy are you with a spanner Joe?

J

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syze
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(Date Posted:27/02/2005 21:13)

I'm learning all the time Jammie. did loads to my s56 (gearbox twice with a bit of help,steering box and uj, brakes,exhaust,gaskets etc etc). recon i'll need specialist tools to get that chain on tho.? joe
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Jammiedodger
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(Date Posted:28/02/2005 00:22)

recon i'll need specialist tools to get that chain on tho.?

I think that if you crawl underneath your truck where the gear boxes are, that you will see the main gearbox where it was on your S56.

If you look along one of the propshafts, at one end you'll see an axle, at the other end you will see another gearbox, that's the hi-low ratio box. - x - I expect that the hi-low ratio box is alongside the main gearbox.  I'm working from memory of similar conversions rather than this specific conversion. and  my memory is fallible.

If I've remembered your system correctly, if you look closely at the back of your main gearbox the long sticky out bit at the back (Tailshaft Extension) has been taken off and theres a  Transfer Case (Chain Case) that goes across to the back of the hi-low box - x - Just to muddle things up a bit, the hi-low box is often called the transfer box I'm afraid.

There should be a cover held onto the transfer case that you can unbolt - x - Drain it before you unbolt it - x - or unbolt it over a suitable container.

When you've got the cover off, you will see the chain.  If it is the type of conversion that I'm thinking about, you undo the nuts that hold the chain wheels in place.  You should be able to buy the chain off the shelf from a chain specialist.  I expect that you should replace the cogs if you can afford to, I don't know where to suggest you look for those though - x - The company that JR bought his 4by from may be able to help you.

NOTE The Transfer case holds oil, it may have its own drain plug, or you may have to drain its oil through either of the gearboxes.

If you don't see anything similar to what I've described, you should be able to find a chain case somewhere else.  I doubt if you will need any special tools.

If you get in touch with lr-exporter he may be able to sell you some photocopies of the pages out of the manual - x - he may also be able to sell you some chains and/or cogs.

You out there lr? - x - If so, have I remembered the correct conversion?

All the best J

 

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syze
15# 



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(Date Posted:01/03/2005 12:09)

thanks j
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RBman
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(Date Posted:01/03/2005 20:43)

Reply to : syze



thanks j





Hi Syze, Reading through the messages it seems that quite rightly so that Jammiedodger has got it right. The guy rocks when it comes to getting greasy. Find the transfer box and go for the internals. (ps it is the huge great cost box slung between the two propshafts. One from the engine and one to the drive front and back you cannot miss it looks heavy ! and it is. I am just about to do the same thing but I am sending the transfer box away for overhaul I shall ask the truck company how it is being done and post back any information I can for you. I would try myself but I just do not have the time right now and the correct number of boxes to package it all up when I mess it up. I think that no matter what, money is going to be spent here ok so brace yourself. Chain and cogs are a good idea so try to do both.

RBman.


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syze
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(Date Posted:08/03/2005 14:41)

Hi lads, thanks for the above info!! managed to get my new RB back from the end of the world,just! How did that company you sent the box to work out RBman? I got plenty of bits to fix now. Any chance of their number? thanks loads joe
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Jammiedodger
18# 



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(Date Posted:08/03/2005 20:51)

 Reynolds Boughton Ltd  
    Bell Lane, Amersham, Buckinghamshire HP6 6PE  
    Tel: 01494 764411  
    Fax: 01494 765218
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Jammiedodger
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(Date Posted:08/03/2005 21:06)

Sir,
    We have availble transfer boxe and gearboxe seconhand but good order.
Please tel our sales on 01476 861361 for further information.
Thank you
For RB44s - I have no idea what they want for them - They may have cogs & chains etc.
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herrcut
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(Date Posted:08/03/2005 22:43)

Reply to : Jammiedodger

Reynolds Boughton LtdBell Lane, Amersham, Buckinghamshire HP6 6PETel: 01494 764411Fax: 01494 765218

Hi jammiedodger & syz & rbman,

Thought you should know Reynolds Boughton have moved to Barton-under-needwood, near Burton-on-trent.  tel 01283 711771.

I have just put an ex-mod rb44 on the road with no previous mechanical knowledge and need to know how many amps the alternator puts out without electricuting myself.  Alternator is labelled Magnetarell or magnetmarell, type A-127 70 fitted in 1991.

thanks dodgyhaircut.

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jfb350
21# 



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(Date Posted:09/03/2005 02:53)

  
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jfb350
22# 



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(Date Posted:09/03/2005 02:55)

Reply to : jfb350

Reply to : herrcut    Hi fellow Mod RB Man, Your alternator should most likely be a Magnetti Marelli (Lucas) A127 65 Amp model Have you disconnected the 24 V auxillary alternator ? Visible under offside wheel arch and run with dual V belts.? Is yours LH Drive ? What milage you got on him. Regards JFB
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jfb350
23# 



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(Date Posted:09/03/2005 02:56)


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herrcut
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(Date Posted:09/03/2005 11:13)

Reply to : jfb350

Reply to : jfb350Reply to : herrcut Hi fellow Mod RB Man, Your alternator should most likely be a Magnetti Marelli (Lucas) A127 65 Amp model Have you disconnected the 24 V auxillary alternator ? Visible under offside wheel arch and run with dual V belts.? Is yours LH Drive ? What milage you got on him. Regards JFB

Hi JFB,

 thanks for that, most helpful.  As for the truck it is RH drive and had 34000km's on when i bought it, now has 35000 and is being prepared to travel the pyrenees for a couple of months this summer.  as for the 24v auxillary alternator, should this be diconnected?  i am adding 4x85Ah lead leisure batteries via an alternator to battery charger which requires atleast 60 amps from the alternator.  Does this sound alright.  Cheers.  Haircut

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herrcut
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(Date Posted:09/03/2005 11:40)

Reply to : jfb350

Reply to : jfb350Reply to : herrcut Hi fellow Mod RB Man, Your alternator should most likely be a Magnetti Marelli (Lucas) A127 65 Amp model Have you disconnected the 24 V auxillary alternator ? Visible under offside wheel arch and run with dual V belts.? Is yours LH Drive ? What milage you got on him. Regards JFB

Hi again JFB,

What mileage have you got, LH/RH drive? Have you had any significant problems with yours.

ps like the paint job.

thanks.

Haircut.

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syze
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(Date Posted:09/03/2005 12:51)

hi jammie, the people at the number you gave did'nt seem to know anything about a transfer and gearbox for rb4x4. What do yer rekkkon? joe
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Jammiedodger
27# 



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(Date Posted:09/03/2005 19:31)

hi jammie, the people at the number you gave did'nt seem to know anything about a transfer and gearbox for rb4x4. What do yer rekkkon? joe

We have availble transfer boxe and gearboxe seconhand but good order.
Please tel our sales on 01476 861361 for further information.

01476 861361 got me through to Wthams (the folks with the 2nd boxes) five minutes ago.

The number I gave you for RB's is out of date

Herrcut gave you RB's new number Thought you should know Reynolds Boughton have moved to Barton-under-needwood, near Burton-on-trent.  tel 01283 711771.

Thanks Herrcut.

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Jammiedodger
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(Date Posted:09/03/2005 19:37)

as for the 24v auxillary alternator, should this be diconnected? 

Your a very lucky man if you've got a second alternator. - x - you've got several options - x - how handy are you at electrics?

i am adding 4x85Ah lead leisure batteries via an alternator to battery charger which requires atleast 60 amps from the alternator.  Please will you explain this more fully? - x - especially why you've decided to use 4 85 AH batteries - x - also, what you will use the electricity stored in those batteries for.

J

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Jammiedodger
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(Date Posted:09/03/2005 19:54)

ok so Andrew of custom diesels was very helpful but quoted me a grand and a half for a new box (new chain and cogs sorted). anyone got a plan b ? joe

I think that you may be getting bogged down by asking prices for transfer BOXES - x - You've got 3 bits

  1. A main gearbox (mega-bucks)
  2. A subsiduary gearbox (hi-low box) with a differential (giga bucks)
  3. A transfer case. (cheap, well, it'll sound cheap after the prices on the others)

If you ask for prices on a transfer box, they will quote you on a transfer case and the subsiduary box, and differential.

You need to ask about transfer chain, transfer cogs, and seal just for them - x - they may refuse to sell them to you in the hope that you'll give them a lot more of your hard earned -x - but that's another question.

Its a pound to a penny, that Reynolds still make the chain they fitted to that box - x - whilst its not best engineering practice to fit new chain to old cogs, it solves more than half your problem - x - the downside is that the new chain wears out quicker on old cogs.

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Jammiedodger
30# 



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(Date Posted:09/03/2005 20:06)

I "borrowed" this off Reynolds website

variocam

I suspect that its a lighter and more sophisticated version of what you need.

 

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jfb350
31# 



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(Date Posted:09/03/2005 20:34)

Reply to : herrcut


 Hi Again Herr Cut.  I asked  of your 24V Alternater because you had`nt mentioned it. There is no problem with this ,infact I think it is there in order to supply juice to the near side front cabinet where the 4 Nato Auxillary batteries are fixed . I guess these were specified for powering equipment (radio possibly) as there was  also 24V compressor for somekind of mast (Pneumatic raising)?

I can imagine this will be perfect for your intentions.Though I`m not too well up with adapting the system to your requirements.

I removed the 4 batteries as I needed the space so therefore removed the V belts driving it for the time being (to help economy).

Mine had been in storage and unused but now I `ve put 10,000 on it. All OK up to now. Removed Brake drums all round to check linings etc & clean out dust.  He`s a Left hooker and doin fine. Will talk again Got to eat right now.Glad you like the livery.   Regards   John.


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herrcut
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(Date Posted:09/03/2005 23:24)

Reply to : Jammiedodger

as for the 24v auxillary alternator, should this be diconnected?Your a very lucky man if you've got a second alternator. - x - you've got several options - x - how handy are you at electrics?i am adding 4x85Ah lead leisure batteries via an alternator to battery charger which requires atleast 60 amps from the alternator.Please will you explain this more fully? - x - especially why you've decided to use 4 85 AH batteries - x - also, what you will use the electricity stored in those batteries for.J

Jammie,

i'm reasonably confident with electrics.  Pretty sure i dont have a second alternator, also no 24v batteries onboard as per rbman.  decided on 4x85Ah because a few freinds live on barges use them and had 6 spares (almost new+v.cheap).  these people produce 240v from alternator>charger>batteries>inverter. spoke to sterling power yesterday who advised on 1800w inverter to go with alternator>battery charger.  i would prefer bigger batteries and more of them, but i'm limited by space as i have had a luton box built off the existing body (cabinets on body cut off and starter battery relocated behind fuel tank). power will be used for various gadgets on a variety of occasion from phone chargers/laptop/tv/video/hairdryer(mrs+miss haircut)/microwave through to power tools and a mobile cinema etc. thanks for the interest, all comments and advice much appreciated. H 

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herrcut
33# 



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(Date Posted:09/03/2005 23:41)

Reply to : Jammiedodger

as for the 24v auxillary alternator, should this be diconnected?Your a very lucky man if you've got a second alternator. - x - you've got several options - x - how handy are you at electrics?i am adding 4x85Ah lead leisure batteries via an alternator to battery charger which requires atleast 60 amps from the alternator.Please will you explain this more fully? - x - especially why you've decided to use 4 85 AH batteries - x - also, what you will use the electricity stored in those batteries for.J

jammie,

as for the 60a bit sterling power are of the opinion that if the alternator produces less than 60a i would need to charge the leisure batts via a battery >battery charger. over 60a i can use an alternator to battery charger. the latter is what S-P recomended. rbman thinks my alternator is 65a and i spoke to R Boughton this morning who think it is 70a. this makes me think i will be fine with alternator>charger style, although i will have to look into how to connect upto the alternator as i have never played with one of these before and dont want to cause damage.  cheers.  H

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herrcut
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(Date Posted:09/03/2005 23:55)

Reply to : jfb350

Reply to : herrcutHi Again Herr Cut. I asked of your 24V Alternater because you had`nt mentioned it. There is no problem with this ,infact I think it is there in order to supply juice to the nearsidefront cabinet where the 4 Nato Auxillary batteries are fixed. I guess these were specified for powering equipment (radio possibly) as there was also 24V compressor for somekind of mast (Pneumatic raising)?I can imagine this will be perfect for your intentions.Though I`m not too well up with adapting the system to your requirements.I removed the 4batteries as I needed the space so therefore removed the V belts driving it for the time being (to help economy).Mine had been in storage and unused but now I `ve put 10,000 on it. All OK up to now

John,

I can't find a 2nd alternator, and 24v batteries+compressor must have been removed before my time. What a shame that could have been really useful. Take care H.

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Just-popped-in
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(Date Posted:10/03/2005 01:19)

Transfer box chains about ?350 each and you need two and cogs about ?200 all + vat sorry to tell you that nasty price

poppin out again
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Popped to the pub, back in a bit.

syze
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(Date Posted:10/03/2005 14:16)

A total mine of information again guys! yup its going to be pricey but cant think of much that isnt these days. gotta do it for the love eh? Reynolds Boughton are very helpfull but then again they are asking for alot of money are'nt they.hehe. recon i'll take my transfer box apart this weekend and see what the score is. i'm thinking that its been ragged more in hi ratio as lo does'nt seem to slip. if this is the case then its about 500 squid methinks for the appropriate chain and cog from RB although i'll try that number again Jammie. Reynolds Boughton gave me these part numbers for reference (does'nt say which is hi and lo ratio):
chains.......
81677
78968

cogs.........
85983-1
85982-1

j
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syze
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(Date Posted:10/03/2005 15:16)

wahey!! that numbers gonna sort me right out Jammie!! This site RULES!! i could'nt have a dodge without y'all! joe + syze (woof from syze!)
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Jammiedodger
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(Date Posted:10/03/2005 22:12)

Hi Herrcut,

Half my guff is below average, and 10% is carp - x - you have to sort the good from the bad and the downright ulgy.

If you haven't got a second alternator, I recommend you to get the parts needed to fit one. - x - then you have 2 alternators - x - one for your starter battery, and one dedicated to your auxiliary batteries.fficeffice" / onload='javascript:showImageWidth(this,600,600)' class='AutoImageWidthTopic' style='cursor:poionter'>

As you haven't got a 24 volt alternator, I'll leave that on the shelf for now. - x - If you get the 2 belt pulley set up, you will be able to drive a fairly large alternator, around 100 amp hour. - x - if you get a battery sensing alternator you will charge your batteries up much better than you will with a machine sensing alternator - x - Lucas battery sensing alternators have a connector on the back marked B+ - x - you connect B+ to the live pole of the battery.

I'm a little bit suspicious of Sterling's propaganda as it seems based on machine sensing alternators - x - I discussed it with a chum who developed alternators for Lucas, he got rather hot under the collar - x - I'd go for their stuff if I ran an emergency vehicle, but as far as I can tell, I'd get very little benefit over my 65 amp battery sensing alternator -x - which keeps my 110 amp starter battery, and 2 by 110 amp house batteries fuller than Sterling's propaganda leads me to expect. - x - Fuller than I expected too - x - A well adjusted fan belt is probably better than their gadget.

I'd get a generator rather than an inverter - x - this guy peter.scillitoe@hb-services.co.uk does some "silent" ones at advantageous prices - x - I suspect that at ?349 delivered his 1600/2000 watt generator will be cheaper than the invertor+sterling control+extra batteries route - x - I'd mount it on the front bumper where the winch normally goes - x - that's isolates the living from the noise as far as possible  - x - my 1000W inverter canes my new 110 amp hour battery in 20mins. - x - You need a lot less batteries with a generator, and you don't need to run your engine. - x - That said, invertors are good for small consumers - x - I've got 3 invertors 150w, 350w and the worthless in real terms 1000w.

Your alternator will be whatever it says on the casing, plus or minus 10% - x - on classic vehicles, what you see is what you've got.

J

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Just-popped-in
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Time spent: 17122 hours


(Date Posted:10/03/2005 23:58)

is there room on the S75 4x4 for a 24 volt alternator as they come with power steering as standard, the steering pump is where the extra alternator woulg go and it will already have the double pully for the extra belt, so I don't think there is enough room for one, I don't know about the RB44 though, I would have thought it was the same? JFB you have an RB44 what do you say?

popped to the pub

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Popped to the pub, back in a bit.

jfb350
40# 



Rank:Ummmmish

Score:1678
Posts:767
From: United Kingdom
Registered:11/10/2003
Time spent: 66971 hours


(Date Posted:12/03/2005 00:26)

Reply to : Just-popped-in


Hi There in the Pub!  Appologies for bein a bit dozy on this one fellas.

My RB is LHD and has power steering gear on the near side.SO the 24V alternator is mounted on the off side of engine (Twin V belts) so there`s a Triple drive pulley on the C/Shaft. This is why I asked originally what side steering. I dont know if RHD models were to the same spec. Possibly not. Also as noted with Mad Tez who had Ex electric board RB44 7.5 ton model .there is less clearance Chassis to body than with MOD model.   Back in a bit


usertype:2 tt= 0

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SOD BUSTER

Jammiedodger
41# 



Registered:06/03/2004
Time spent: 0 hours


(Date Posted:12/03/2005 12:02)

Hi Herrcut

Well the second alternator idea seems to be placed in the wastebin of wishful thinking.

If you want a few ideas on a cost effective, electrically efficicient way to wire a motorcaravan that doesn't involve expensive status symbols like Sterling's black boxes then ask in a new column

J

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herrcut
42# 



Rank:Dodge Fan

Score:382
Posts:139
Registered:13/02/2005
Time spent: 24135 hours


(Date Posted:12/03/2005 13:29)

Reply to : Jammiedodger


Hi Jammie,

i like the sound of hooking up a 2nd alternator idea, especially as i was thinking about getting a spare alternator before i go on my travels, cos with my luck (v.good or v.bad- run of the mill things dont happen to me) i'll connect all this kit to the alternator and then burn the alternator out in the most inaccessible place imaginable.

The generator on the front bumper is also a great idea and would look even better, unfortunatly if i did this i would no longer be able to get out of the house through the front door, and finding alternative accomodation for the rb is out of the question as one of the biggest factors that drove me to buy an rb44 was the ability to park on my drive so that i could do anything or go anywhere by just going out the front door, the other factors were 4x4 and cruise at 60mph+3 seats.

I also already have a 950w + 4500 w petrol generators (for out door displays/events that family dont attend) with 30m cables +electric hook up and fuse board - i just hate generators especially petrol ones cos unloading + refuelling in the rain on a mountainside isnt fun anymore.

The main reason for the 12v system is making mrs+little miss h as comfy as possible which i have been told means providing enough power for a hairdryer (1800w continuous) without lugging a 60kg gene, all other onboard gadgets consume v.little except microwave which isnt on for long. I also have a hatch between the cab +living area, so with a 12v system no one needs to get wet or bust a bloodvessel to provide power which will otherwise be instant. Floor space is also at a premium after building a double bed, kitchen unit, folding table and chair

A s i see it i will have to go down the 12v route, might cost a few quid but much cheaper than renting a cottage in the contryside for acouple of weeks a year like so many people do, and we con go anywhere any time forever

As for the 2nd 100a battery sensing alternator this sounds like the best solution i have come across, but how do they go about charging the final 20/25%  of battery capacity, this apparently is what these alternator>battery chargers do whilst increasing life span of the battery by varying the voltage to the battery in timed stages.

Any ideas what it would cost to aquire all the parts and have them fitted properly, as i dont have time to teach myself this before i go away in june.

I am also a little suspicious of s-p's motives after paying them a visit and have found a boat chandlers yesterday that are 30% cheaper. While s-p are good for emergency vehicles they also supply  to the ever increasing mobile home market, which is becomig flooded with peopl with more money than they have time to spend it in.

Thanks again, hope that isnt too rambling, late night last night.

Cheers H.


usertype:3 tt= 0
syze
43# 



Rank:Dodge Fan

Score:426
Posts:113
Registered:31/10/2003
Time spent: 0 hours


(Date Posted:13/03/2005 15:04)

Hi all, i got the transfer box off last w.end and inspected the bits. The chains i have been told are meant to stretch over time and this is what they've done lots! The cogs seem to be in perfect condition although with nothing to compare with i'm not sure how much bite(angle) they're meant to have on each tooth. They seem absolutely fine tho. It sure is a beefy bit of kit! My next direction is slightly unclear to me so any advice would be appreciated, do i get a good quality second hand box complete or go for brand new chains? These are both options at the moment but the second hand box is cheaper! Also could i get a couple of links taken out of the old chains by a specialist? I imagine that once they've done their stretching they might be still good for a while? (part of me's saying yeah right). joe
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Jammiedodger
44# 



Registered:06/03/2004
Time spent: 0 hours


(Date Posted:13/03/2005 15:45)

Hi all, i got the transfer box off last w.end and inspected the bits. What did it feel like when you'd finally got it off?

The chains i have been told are meant to stretch over time and this is what they've done lots!

The cogs seem to be in perfect condition although with nothing to compare with The distance between one work face on the cog and teh next work face on the cog should be the length of w NEW link.

Can you turn them round, so that the new chain rubs works against the unworn face?

i'm not sure how much bite(angle) they're meant to have on each tooth. They seem absolutely fine tho. It sure is a beefy bit of kit! My next direction is slightly unclear to me so any advice would be appreciated, do i get a good quality second hand box Do you get a money back guarantee on the "new box",  Test the chain for slack before you fit it.  Reynolds should be avle to tell you how much slack marks the point between Ok and Rubbish.

complete or go for brand new chains?   Search for chain suppliers on the internet and or yellow pages, you'll probably find similar chain at much better prices.

These are both options at the moment but the second hand box is cheaper! Check the slack in the chain - if it's good, go for it, but with your money not mine.

 Also could i get a couple of links taken out of the old chains by a specialist?  Yes if you are prepared to accept teh risk that you may have to do the job again in 5,000 miles.

 I imagine that once they've done their stretching they might be still good for a while? (part of me's saying yeah right)  All of me says that you are wrong, they will probably go on stretching at the same rate

If I earned a living with it, I do it properly.

If I kust had fun with it, I'd keep a note of where to buy new parts (2nd parts?) and take the links out.

All the best Jj

usertype:5 tt= 0
syze
45# 



Rank:Dodge Fan

Score:426
Posts:113
Registered:31/10/2003
Time spent: 0 hours


(Date Posted:04/04/2005 13:11)

Hi all, hows it going? Springs in the air eh?! might be time for another surf today methinks! Right so, more transfer box antics....If you're going to do anything at all you might as well do it properly eh? I've got this RB44 transfer box thats nice and tight but am wondering about putting it in instead of the old RB75 box. This will mean transfering the hydraulics setup from old to new box. The plate i'll have to remove on the new box looks the right size but my main concern is weather the cogs will line up inside? Its a pretty big IF i know....so anyone got any useful advice...thanks joe
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Jammiedodger
46# 



Registered:06/03/2004
Time spent: 0 hours


(Date Posted:04/04/2005 14:03)

If the gear boxes are the same (check the ID plates on the gearboxes) I expect that they'll swop.

Do you just wish to swap a tight transfer chain for a slack transfer chain?

J

usertype:5 tt= 0
syze
47# 



Rank:Dodge Fan

Score:426
Posts:113
Registered:31/10/2003
Time spent: 0 hours


(Date Posted:04/04/2005 17:33)

Hi Jammie, hows it going? I've got the gearbox changed over already- it's a goodun. My options as i see em are either get some new chains from Reynolds to put in the old transfer box (RB75 box) or fit the whole new transfer box (RB44 box) and attempt to fit the hydraulic takeoffs onto this box. Seeing as i've already spent the money i might aswell try the 44 box and fiddle with the hydraulics. Will it work? I'm thinking that the only answer is to get my hands dirty and see for myself. cheers joe

cor...talk about learning curves....mines gone vertical recently!
usertype:3 tt= 0
Jammiedodger
48# 



Registered:06/03/2004
Time spent: 0 hours


(Date Posted:04/04/2005 21:02)

I'm fair to middlin thanks Joe, how are you?

If the hi/low gear boxes (in the transfer boxes)  are the same (check the ID plates on the hi/low gearboxes) I expect that they'll swop.

If they are the same, you should be able to swap parts to work your hydraulics.

If not, you may be into getting some machining done - x - I recommend you to crawl underneath and do some measuring before you get your hands  seriously dirty.

How did you feel when you'd changed main gear boxes? - x - 9ft tall?

Jammie

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