Yes I cut the flutes with a regular endmill.  Tin coated.

I think the spin indexer would make for a more precise setup.  A book I have on makeing rifle barrels and reamers says to not have the flute perfectly indexed as it can lead to reamer chatter.  So you could use the indexer and set each flute off a few degrees from 90??

Maybe you could just make a block to put a  bolt through with the end of the bolt turned to a point, bolt this to the mill table oposite the spin indexer to support the nose of the reamer.  Then you could run the bolt out and have clearance for the end mill.

The larger cutter in the picture was meant to be a flute cutter so I could get more than 4 flutes, but it didn't do too well on cutting the O-1.  It works great on cold rolled though.

I don't know how the different materials would for makeing reamers.  Maybe A-1 wouldn't have as much of a tendency to warp because it cools slower??

Yes I cut the backside relief with the diamond hone after quenching.  You could remove most of the material before hardening, but I think you should leave some so the edge doesn't get distorted when heating and quenching.

You should share your experiences so we can both get better at it.

I use Rigid dark thread cutting oil for cutting chambers and threads.  Someone mentioned that ATF works fairly well.  I've used it for some less critical parts and it seems to do well.

I would try using any type of air hardening steel. A-2, and D-2 have good reamers. For heat treatment put it under a fan, or compressed air for the quench. i would just have a macjine shop send it out with their stuff. The O-1 and W-1 steels are prone to warping, the faster the quench, the more possibility of warping. If you can grind hardened steel, look at ebay, for new straight flute Chucking reamers. I just got a few for 2-7 dollars. Just please don't bid against me, I go by greg5278. You can also purchase prehardened reamer blanks for reasoble prices, some are available with pilots. Good luck with your project, and let me know if I can help. Greg

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Yes I cut the flutes with a regular endmill. Tin coated.I think the spin indexer would make for a more precise setup. A book I have on makeing rifle barrels and reamers says to not have the flute perfectly indexed as it can lead to reamer chatter. So you could use the indexer and set each flute off a few degrees from 90??Maybe you could just make a block to put a bolt through with the end of the bolt turned to a point, bolt this to the mill table oposite the spin indexer to support the nose of the reamer. Then you could run the bolt out and have clearance for the end mill.The larger cutter in the picture was meant to be a flute cutter so I could get more than 4 flutes, but it didn't do too well on cutting the O-1. It works great on cold rolled though.I don't know how the different materials would fo

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Thanks Greg, I'll be sure to bid high  Lar45 on ebay.

I'll have to try some A-2

.....................Heh, heh! I see I made a remark in 7 or 04 about starting the Snider (soon) and here it is, 3 of 05 and I haven't started it YET!. Oh to be retired.

........................Buckshot