..........I'd posted about shooting this rifle a few weeks ago and it's results warrented so tinkering. First off I am not trying to make it a BR50 gun or anything. Yet for $50 I could take some liberties with it and not feel bad about any little oopsies along the way. I finally got around to pulling the barreled action to do some work to it. The way it was you had considerable creep and then a trigger that DID break clean, but at the cost of causing your index finger knuckles to crack and pop with the effort. Once it finally broke, there was twice the overtravel as there was takeup. Also, as is common to 22's, the barreled action was held in the stock by one screw. This screw whicle being fairly substantial is afterall, only one screw. It threads into a cylinder that is dovetailed into the bottom of the barrel about 1" ahead of the action. Again, fairly common in RF's. The action area of the stock is completely routed out so the tubular action is unsupported underneath and bears on wood only at the extreme rear for about 1/4". I know this is kind of hard to follow and I do plan on posting some before and after photos. I plan on leaving the existing screw in place and to add another. There really is only one accessable spot for it on the underside of the action. Starting at the front you have the magazine housing, a 1/2" area where the sear spring rides, then the sear pivit and sear which extends rearward, the trigger arm which comes forward to it, and then the rear of the action. I think I'll remove the sear pivit housing and make another which will extend down to touch the bottom of the inletting and will have a screw come up through the stock and thread into it. It's about 3/8" in diameter and split with the sear riding in the split and a pin going through it and the split housing. It's threaded into the underside of the action. I figure to make a new one that's 1/2" in diameter and that will thread into the action in the same spot. It'll have a slot in it but be solid on the bottom. This will be D&T'd to accept the 2nd action screw. Since it's almost in the center of the action's length, it'll supply more rigidity to it. I disassembled the bolt as far as I could. The rear rotating section contains the striker assembly and it has a substanial spring to power it. It's captured in the front by a machined shoulder and at the rear by a "C" shaped clip with inward facing ears on each of the "C"s arms. Kind of like an "E" clip but only of 180 degrees. Each of these 2 ears go through the bolt wall and fit into little notches at the rear of the mainspring housing. I do not believe it was intended to be taken apart without breaking this "C" clip. I worked for sometime trying to get the "C" clip out, but it just wasn't happening. I had planned on removing a full coil off the mainspring. Oh well. The main reason for wanting to do this was bolt lift effort. Due to the angle of the milled incline the cocking piece has to climb when the bolt handle is operated, it required consience effort on your part. You could also see the barreled action flexing in the stock from the effort. I may still try and modify the spring. I might have to break the "C" clip, but can D&T a couple 4-40 holes to accept setscrews to retain the mainspring housing. We'll see. All in all, even though this was not an expensive rifle when new, there is nothing cheap about it. All the parts are blued and machined steel. There is no plastic where plastic is accepted these days, and the dual extractors are milled and not stamped sheet metal. Plus they're powered by real coil springs! There is even a sear engagement screw! I contented myself with polishing & stoning all the trigger contact surfaces and will add an overtravel adjustment screw to it. As well as this rifle shot the way I got it, I'm excited to see what these additional bedding and trigger mods make. Lots of fun with an old $50 22! ..............Buckshot