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lar45
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1#
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(Date Posted:03/16/2005 07:16:59)
I think I read somewhere awhile back that the mineral oil and castor oil are cooked together so that they combine into a longer polymer string. It takes the heat to drive the reaction.
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More Powder, Bigger Bullets
Lar
www.herb-store.com/lgw/howda
http://members.fortunecity.com/howda
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_felix_
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2#
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(Date Posted:03/16/2005 07:30:46)
Reply to : lar45
I think I read somewhere awhile back that the mineral oil and castor oil are cooked together so that they combine into a longer polymer string. It takes the heat to drive the reaction. ... LAR45
TRUE! Mineral oil is the culprit. Actually, any kind of earth oil and veggie oil and animal oil seldom get along together over time. They tend to seperate and leak out of beeswax unless the oils are preheated to make the composite a larger size on a molecular basis. Ideally, one hour of preheat at 300 degrees, but that is impossible without ruining most oils. Try to never let any oil smoke when doing any kind of cooking. Peanut oil has the advantage here, but has the disadvantage of going rancid over time. Mineral oil, or any kind of petro product, is a natural microbe killer, and should be included in lube meant for long term storage. For short term, OK, who cares, all natural oils can be used. However, castor oil has the smallest molecular structure, and that is the biggest reason for the heat up front. So, if not using castor oil, the heating process can be normal enough just to mix throughly and let cool within reason, say 15 minutes. If any leakage from the final product, then the heat has to be extended. Extended the heat is by time and temperature as a mathematical product. Short time, high heat; or long time, low heat, etc. ... felix
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felix
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utk
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3#
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(Date Posted:03/16/2005 10:59:52)
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I understand that the 30 minute cooking combines the mineral oil and the castor oil using the stearate. Is that still necesary if those ingredients are replaced with ATF and STP ? Do oils normally seperate out from beeswax ?
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jcork,
As I understand it, the 30 min cooking combines the two oils. The stearate is added at this stage because of it's slightly high melting temp, higher than beeswax. (No castor oil = no lengthy cooking). The purpose of the stearate is to keep ALL ingredients "glued together" in the mix when cooling down. The mineral oil can be ATF Dexron lll or Baby Oil.
(I have sent a "fwfl manual" to your email addy)
utk
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jcork
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4#
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(Date Posted:03/17/2005 02:00:35)
Felix-
Thanx for your detailed answer. So if I get this right, the mineral oil is used because it is non-organic if you will and has natural anti-microbial properties, and because it makes for a longer chain molecule when combined with castor oil.
You mentioned that castor oil is a pretty small molecule; is that significant for it's use in the lube? I was just wondering because the one thing I haven't see any references to is synthetic motor oil; as I understand it, synthetic motor oil is based on some very small, uniform, molecules which because of their size are less subject to shearing in an engine. I don't know that shearing is a huge problem with bullet lube, but I wasn't sure if the molecular size was somehow relevant. I know they tend to have a high flash point and are stable.
Since ATF is designed as a replacement for sperm whale oil (a common ingredient in older recipe's), is it a large molecule or a small one?
In reading all the recipe's I have found, I find I am always biased towards the mineral-based solutions, and away from animal/vegetable. I suppose that's pretty irrational considering how little I understand of the chemistry involved.
I have now received 'the manual' which has even more discussion of this topic - thanx utk.
I appreciate all the info; I have about 15# of beeeswax cleaned up, and I'll see about starting some experiments this weekend for .357 and .44 .
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_felix_
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5#
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(Date Posted:03/17/2005 03:24:39)
Reply to : jcork
Jcork, you are getting the idea. There are pure synthetics that work as a good boolit lube, but have failures in other respects. Most of the good ones I have played with so far, and that is not many of them, have too much viscosity no matter how "thin" they are. If fact one in particular, made for small electric motor bearings, cannot be cut with a good barrel cleaner oil/solvent. I have not tried many of these solvents either, but those in common gun use. So, there might be a rainy day sometime and I get in the mood to try more things. In the meantime, it is hard to beat the lubes we are playing with now.
Sperm whale oil is more associated with jojoba oil and crawfish oil in terms of chemical likeness. Jojoba is the best because it can be used as a body lotion without the negative smellies, making the price of it somewhat more in line for all around home use. The viscosity of these oils is very low, and that is why they make good boolit lubes. But, too expensive for that purpose, unless thinning down a lube already made. That amount won't drain the bank.
felix
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felix
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YES, Castboolits.gunloads is currently down,,we are working on it
http://chat.parachat.com/chat/code.php if you want to BS and share the trials and tribulations.
